Onsen or Alone, Naked and Foreign

You know that cliché dream? You’re walking down the middle of the street naked and everyone is looking at you? This happened to me! Well, sort of. Check it out . . .

Our next stop was Yupopo Onsen. An onsen is a Japanese hot spring. Onsens come in many varieties – some are big, some are small; some are old and traditional, while others are new and modern. They are all designed to have a relaxing effect on mind and body, and nearly all of them are gender separated. There’s also very specific protocol that must be followed when preparing to enter the onsen.

The Yupopo Onsen is a big modern complex with two huge bathing areas – one for men and one for women. Since I was going in alone, Luke had to explain everything to me before we separated.

After getting strict instructions on onsen etiquette, I entered the women’s locker room – ALONE!

So, I walk in, and it’s kind of like when the bad guy enters the bar and the music stops playing. While I think that the women here are generally discreet, they made no secret of the fact that they were checking out the gaijin in their onsen.

I totally stripped down to reveal tan lines, tattoo and belly button ring – all of which are totally objectionable in Japanese culture. But no one would ever give you a dirty look or say anything. They stare, to be sure, but showing any discourtesy is considered even more offensive than whatever you’re doing to attract attention.

Anyway, I gathered all my toiletries and towels and headed into the bathing area. The first thing you do is scrub down – and I mean scrub. You have to be squeaky clean to enter the tubs. But there is no privacy in which to bathe, just a bunch of little stations with stool, tub, spout and showerhead. This particular onsen provides soap for hair and body (you even have to wash your hair!).

So, I looked around for cues and observed women taking a lot of time to be totally thorough and I followed suit, despite the exhibitionist quality of the whole experience.

After I sloughed off my gaijin filth, as it were, I looked around for a suitable first tub. I picked a warm, but not hot bath, stayed in there a few minutes and then went into a cold “exercise” pool. After that I made the huge mistake of getting into the electric tub (I don’t think I’ve yet recovered). When I got in I didn’t notice anything, but an old woman pointed to some jets on the side. I put my hand in front first and it seemed okay, so I moved my back over the panel and, “Owwww!” It shocked me from head to toe. I am sure the old woman got a good laugh when I bolted to the other side of the tub to escape the current.

After that I headed outdoors to try the open-air tubs. It was nice to sit outside, as the sun was actually shining just before it dipped below the horizon. Then it was back in to try the cold tub. This was, by far, my favorite – so refreshing.

Keep in mind that all the while people are looking at me like I’ve got three heads. Like it wasn’t uncomfortable enough to be naked, I’ve got women peeking around corners to get a look at me.

I finished up with a soak in a mineral bath that smelled like vegetable soup, and then to get rid of the smell, I hopped in a bath that had a stream of water overhead to massage your neck and back. It was fabulously relaxing!

Finally, it was back to the showers where I again washed up in public. I’d say the whole experience took a little over an hour and I can’t wait to do it again! I can see why this is such a huge form of recreation here – it’s social (if you have friends and can speak☺), it’s healing and relaxing, it’s cheap and it’s everywhere.