A Belated Conclusion

I’m feeling bad that I never finished journaling my last visit to Japan. The last few days of the trip were too busy to write and when I got home, I just forgot to pick it up, I guess. There’s not much left to tell, but I feel incomplete without this blog’s conclusion. And conclusion, I’m afraid it is. As two out of my last six months have been spent exploring the hidden corners of Miyakonojo and the great wonders of Southern Japan, I feel that it’s time to pursue travel elsewhere. (I must admit, I say this only half-heartedly, as in searching for a ticket to Bangkok earlier today, I researched a stopover in Miyazaki to see Luke before we head to the beaches of Thailand.)

Conclusion of my visits to Nippon or not, I will at least reveal the details of the end of this most recent trip . . .

Following the somewhat ill-fated kyudo lesson (ill-fated in that I remain an undiscovered talent), Luke and I made plans to hike the local volcano, Kirishima. Hiking great peaks always spikes some anxiety in me, thanks to all the perils that accompany mountaineering in Colorado. But, in this area of Japan, this time of year, there are no weather concerns, and as it’s a popular hike, there’s no route finding, scrambling or technical sections, so I was free to enjoy the wander. Except for one tiny thing – the smoking crater and certainly impending eruption.

It turns out it’s not so scary after all. A little crowded, yes (it looked like a line of ants moving up the trail ahead), but not scary. In fact, it was quite pleasant. We made our way out of the parking lot, which actually reminded me of the visitor center on Trail Ridge Road, thanks to the gift shops and tourists with no intention of hiking beyond the Torii gate, and up the trail bordered on each side by lush greenery. Not too far up, the trees and foliage disappear. I’m not sure why – I think it has something to do with the volcanic activity, because common sense would dictate that the latitude and elevation wouldn’t prevent growth. But anyway, from here on out, it’s just scree fields of lava rock. So cool! It’s actually kind of slippery, especially on the way down, but we made excellent time, reaching the summit in just over an hour, I think.

There’s an elaborate shrine at the top, not to mention amazing 360-degree views. And, I totally forgot to share the geological marvels that can be seen on the way to the top. Really, words don’t do this molten mountain justice. For a more vivid description of the layers of brilliantly colored exposed bedrock and bubbling cauldron of a crater, click on the link at the top right to see photos.

We concluded our hike with a visit to Yupopo Onsen, a fabulous, geothermically-powered bath, where I, once again, had to bare all in the presence of curious Japanese women. This time, however, I was much better equipped to handle the stares of those shocked to see a foreigner, much less a tattooed and pierced foreigner, marching into their hot springs, and the ogling of children who had maybe seen just a handful of only clothed Americans ever!


With just a few days remaining before I returned home, Luke and I decided a trip to the beach was in order. When I was in Miyakonojo during the summer, we spent many days on the beach, but because the weather was cooler this time, we weren’t as quick to make it to the sand and waves. Though, it’s no less beautiful in the fall.

We took the long way to the coast, winding through rice paddies and forests still not tinged by autumn’s chill. On the way, we stopped near Obijo castle to buy some beautifully hand-forged knives. It was a bit chilly and windy on the beach, but I still managed to dip my toes in the water and collect a few shells.

The way home lead us through a festival and parade in Nichinan. Looking back on my photos, I realize that the last picture I took was of a parade group gathering in front of the Lawson convenience store. This is probably appropriate and reflective of the time I spent there, as festivals were always my favorite for their food and revelry, and the Lawson, well, I could go on for pages. I admit, sadly, that it’s the equivalent of 7-11, but I just love it so much – they have delicious seaweed-wrapped rice, ice cream and Hello Kitty fans. I couldn’t be more delighted by any other small pleasures.

Coastal Tour

Luke’s international driving permit is about to expire, and because he’s staying in Japan for another year, he has to get an actual Japanese driver’s license. Basically, he has to make like he’s 16 again and take driving lessons and a test. It’s a long, drawn out, inconvenient and expensive process for a foreigner to get licensed to drive in this country, requiring several trips to Miyazaki city and lots of yen. It sucks for Luke, but for me it means extra trips to the beach and the crazy Japanese shopping mall.

One such visit to Miyazaki city for this whole licensing debacle led to a trip to Mos Burger, “Fine Japanese Burger and Coffee.” (This so-called fast food actually involved a 20-minute wait at the window for our teriyaki burgers, fries and shakes, and yes they do screw up orders just as badly here as they do in the States.) After which we began a long drive down the Southern Coast of Kyushu. Luke’s Coastal Tour remains one of the best parts of my trip so far. We stopped at a secret swimming hole where we jumped off rocks into the ocean, and wandered around looking at tide pools. Then we found a shrine hidden deep in a valley next to a beautiful waterfall. And finally we visited Cape Toi, the home of a herd of wild horses. All along the way we saw monkeys hanging by the roadside and more hawks than I could count gliding just above.

I still can’t believe how tropical and exotic this part of Japan is. It’s such a contrast to the concrete Jungle that is Tokyo.
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On my next visit to Miyazaki city, Luke dropped me at the Starbucks while he attended a driving lesson. Yes, that’s right, Starbucks. Globalization finally reared its ugly head (first time this trip!), and I found myself drinking iced coffee under the all too familiar green sign. In my defense, I will say that I had a lot of work to do and not knowing the area, I decided this would be the most reliable option. In this part of Japan, there’s not exactly a thriving freelance culture, and therefore not many coffee shops catering to the needs of struggling writers and trust funders.

Anyhow, after I compromised my morals at Starbucks, we made a trip to the mall for ice cream and to shop for souvenirs and Engrish. No such luck, although it was kind of fun to see Japanese shopping mall culture. It’s basically the same as at home – families and teenagers killing time on a weekend afternoon.

This weekend I am going to the mall in Kagoshima to kick it with my new Japanese girlfriends. Luke, much to his chagrin, has to go along as my translator. I am really looking forward to it – should be interesting to experience an outing with the girls, Japanese style.

Tanegashima

I have never thought of Japan as a beach destination. I don’t think anyone really does – at least not anyone on our side of the world. So it was quite a surprise to find myself on the island Tanegeshima, off Japan’s south coast, enjoying some of the most beautiful, tropical beaches I have ever seen. The warmth and clarity of the water rivaled the emerald quality of the Gulf Coast, while the scenery was somewhat reminiscent of the rocky arches that decorate Capri.

It was at once the best of all my favorite seaside spots, and completely new and different at the same time. Everything I love about the beach with a Japanese twist.

Our weekend began with a ferry ride from Kagoshima – about a two-hour drive from Miyakonojo. I slept most of the way, thanks to a somewhat late night involving yakiniku (all you can eat grilled meat) and karaoke. When we got to Tanegashima our rental car was waiting with an old woman (who actually referred to herself as old woman, “obachan”), and after attaching Luke’s surfboards to the top of the car, we headed to a surfer’s getaway called Mauna Village.

That evening we strolled along the beach, collected seashells, took a quick dip in the ocean and gorged ourselves at the Mauna Village BBQ. They put a plate of seafood and meat in front of us that could have fed 10, and we did America proud and ate most of it between the two of us (that’s two huge chicken legs, two whole fish, countless strips of beef and pork, eggplant, tofu and peppers).

After a restless night’s sleep on the world’s thinnest futons, complemented by rice pillows, we set out to explore Tanegashima. We stopped lots of places to see the view and check out the beaches, but our final destination that day was a cove on the southern tip of the island . . .

Imagine the perfect beach – totally picturesque in its palm tree frame, sugar sandy beaches littered with spectacular shells and clear blue water with gentle waves carrying surfers to shore . . . yes this was where we spent our day, Iwasaki Beach.

We surfed (yes, me, too!), relaxed, played football and I collected a bazillion shells. It was a perfect beach day, to say the least!

While that is hard to top, the next day certainly did not disappoint. This time we headed to the north side of the island where we found a small beach with crystal clear green water and almost no waves – the perfect place to float on the American flag inner tubes we rented.

Having thoroughly zapped ourselves after two full days in the sun, we drove around the island a bit more and then went back to port to catch the ferry home. The ride this time was absolutely sensational as we watched neighboring islands float in the distance while the bright orange sun set behind classically Japanese volcanoes.

(Think I could get a job with Japan’s tourism board, promoting this country as a beach destination?)

Day at the Beach::Udo Shrine

We took the back way to the coast, winding through rice paddies and other crops on two-lane country roads, reaching Miyazaki city and the ocean in just over an hour. Miyazaki is known for its beautiful coastline, surf breaks and seaside resorts. There are small stretches of sandy beaches, though most of the shore is characterized by what is called the Devil’s Washboard – a jagged rock formation caused by wave erosion.

After a quick lunch overlooking a small surf break, we stopped for a swim. The water was colder and cloudier than normal thanks to the typhoon, but still great for taking a dip. We relaxed in the waves, played a little American football (I’m sure Luke owns the only football on this island!), and checked out the tide pools hidden in the rock bed.

I think the local beachgoers were amused by us – Luke and his pigskin, and me in a bikini with most of my skin exposed (the women here keep covered up, not so much out of propriety, but to keep their skin white and smooth – these smart ladies simply don’t see the point of a tan).

Sand and salt encrusted, we made our way further south for a visit to Udo Shrine. Now, I have been to a few shrines both on this visit and when I was in Tokyo a few years back, but quite frankly, Udo blows them all out of the water. It is probably the most beautiful place in Japan.

In order to get to the shrine, you have to escalate an Indiana Jones-esque staircase with a silly number of rocky, old steps and once you’ve reached the top, you have to descend equally as far to the cliffs overlooking the sea. But is it ever worth it.

Down a pathway, through several gates you plunge even further into the rocky cove. And hidden in a grotto at the end is Udo Shrine. This shrine is intended to promote healthy relationships and fertility (we’ll take the healthy relationship bit only, thanks very much).

And thus, my description of the shrine ends. In all my articulacy, I don’t think I have the words to continue. Check out the pictures or visit for yourself.