Many, many, many, many, many thanks - the bow in action

I have been waiting for the occasion when bowing is totally excessive to the point of both parties continually doing it with no end in sight. It finally happened!

Luke and I went to a tea ceremony with Yasue the other day to learn about this Zen practice. Traditional ceremonies are about three hours long, but our peek into this mysterious art only lasted about 15 minutes.

Upon arrival, we watched the lady (I don’t actually know what they call the tea ceremony teacher) make the tea and then knelt down on the tatami to be served. Before we went, Yasue gave us a preliminary lesson so we wouldn’t screw up too badly.

It’s all very exact, and adhering to the etiquette is extremely important. When you are served you actually have to look at the person on your right and essentially apologize that you’ll be drinking your tea before they’ve been served. Then you pick up your teacup (it’s really a bowl), turn it 90 degrees clockwise, twice, and slurp. And you really have to slurp – two times and on the third gulp you have to finish off the green tea with a really loud slurping noise. This is to show how much you like it.

After that you have to admire the teacup, at length, and offer heaps of compliments to your hostess. It goes on and on for hours, like this, and concludes with kneeling and bowing to no end.

First you thank the hostess by bowing low to the floor, then she thanks you with a bow and you have to thank her again, bowing of course. At this point, I think she thanks you for thanking her (bowing) and you acknowledge this with additional gratitude also in the form of a bow. Mind you, this is all while you’re still on your knees before you even get up to leave.

Then it starts all over again. I became totally lost in the second round and certainly committed a faux pas when I neglected to kneel and bow for like the tenth time at the door. I think Yasue was confused, too. The Japanese bow all the time for sure (they even do it in the car when yielding), but it doesn’t usually go to such extremes.

You always hear about things like this when Americans satirize the Japanese, but to see it first hand was deliciously awkward!

Gaijin dances, two dead

Arrival and going away parties seem to be a pretty big deal in this culture, which is why I found myself at yet another bon voyage occasion for a few of Luke’s coworkers. This time it was at the Kirishima Brewery/Beer Garden. Actually a really cool venue with a huge outside tent – perfect for parties. Lot’s of other people were there celebrating or just relaxing. It’s matsuri (festival) season here, so people are in high spirits and are very social. On this particular evening, the Kirishima Beer people were distributing prizes to people who wore their traditional garb, or yukata.

One small group of women seemed especially excited to be participating, and celebrated further with karaoke and a traditional dance. This tiny old woman kicked off her wooden flip-flops and performed an intricate series of steps and hand motions, in the middle of which, she decided that I would make an excellent addition to her repertoire.

All of a sudden I was yanked from my chair and thrust into the middle of the tent, much to the delight of the 70 or 80 half-drunk Japanese in the audience. I tried, vainly, to imitate her movements, but mostly succeeded in looking like an uncoordinated giant in contrast to the tiny women next to me.

Photos revealed that indeed, I was Neanderthalic at best, in my attempt. If you have the pleasure of viewing them yourself, perhaps the same headline will run through your head, “Gaijin dances, two dead.” It really looked like if I made a wrong move, I might have been responsible for the demise of a revered obachan (old woman).

Tanegashima

I have never thought of Japan as a beach destination. I don’t think anyone really does – at least not anyone on our side of the world. So it was quite a surprise to find myself on the island Tanegeshima, off Japan’s south coast, enjoying some of the most beautiful, tropical beaches I have ever seen. The warmth and clarity of the water rivaled the emerald quality of the Gulf Coast, while the scenery was somewhat reminiscent of the rocky arches that decorate Capri.

It was at once the best of all my favorite seaside spots, and completely new and different at the same time. Everything I love about the beach with a Japanese twist.

Our weekend began with a ferry ride from Kagoshima – about a two-hour drive from Miyakonojo. I slept most of the way, thanks to a somewhat late night involving yakiniku (all you can eat grilled meat) and karaoke. When we got to Tanegashima our rental car was waiting with an old woman (who actually referred to herself as old woman, “obachan”), and after attaching Luke’s surfboards to the top of the car, we headed to a surfer’s getaway called Mauna Village.

That evening we strolled along the beach, collected seashells, took a quick dip in the ocean and gorged ourselves at the Mauna Village BBQ. They put a plate of seafood and meat in front of us that could have fed 10, and we did America proud and ate most of it between the two of us (that’s two huge chicken legs, two whole fish, countless strips of beef and pork, eggplant, tofu and peppers).

After a restless night’s sleep on the world’s thinnest futons, complemented by rice pillows, we set out to explore Tanegashima. We stopped lots of places to see the view and check out the beaches, but our final destination that day was a cove on the southern tip of the island . . .

Imagine the perfect beach – totally picturesque in its palm tree frame, sugar sandy beaches littered with spectacular shells and clear blue water with gentle waves carrying surfers to shore . . . yes this was where we spent our day, Iwasaki Beach.

We surfed (yes, me, too!), relaxed, played football and I collected a bazillion shells. It was a perfect beach day, to say the least!

While that is hard to top, the next day certainly did not disappoint. This time we headed to the north side of the island where we found a small beach with crystal clear green water and almost no waves – the perfect place to float on the American flag inner tubes we rented.

Having thoroughly zapped ourselves after two full days in the sun, we drove around the island a bit more and then went back to port to catch the ferry home. The ride this time was absolutely sensational as we watched neighboring islands float in the distance while the bright orange sun set behind classically Japanese volcanoes.

(Think I could get a job with Japan’s tourism board, promoting this country as a beach destination?)

Japanese Lessons

No longer am I the incompetent wretch who arrived in Miyakonojo. No siree, I am learning Japanese! And though two lessons with Luke’s teacher, Yasue, have not made me the intellectual equal of my peers, I communicated quite well with a four-year-old at the park the other day. That is, until we made it past basic introductions and she started saying things I couldn’t understand, at which point I frantically regurgitated the phrase I know best, “Nihongo ga, hanasemasen!” or, “I don’t speak Japanese!”

I may not be headed for fluency, but that does not deter me. Japanese lessons are the best! When I arrive at Yasue’s house, she serves me tea and a snack and we do things like learn to count, and yesterday I practiced writing my name.

It’s like preschool for big kids!

Next lesson we are meeting at a café so I can practice ordering food and asking questions.

Until then, Sayonara!

Day at the Beach::Udo Shrine

We took the back way to the coast, winding through rice paddies and other crops on two-lane country roads, reaching Miyazaki city and the ocean in just over an hour. Miyazaki is known for its beautiful coastline, surf breaks and seaside resorts. There are small stretches of sandy beaches, though most of the shore is characterized by what is called the Devil’s Washboard – a jagged rock formation caused by wave erosion.

After a quick lunch overlooking a small surf break, we stopped for a swim. The water was colder and cloudier than normal thanks to the typhoon, but still great for taking a dip. We relaxed in the waves, played a little American football (I’m sure Luke owns the only football on this island!), and checked out the tide pools hidden in the rock bed.

I think the local beachgoers were amused by us – Luke and his pigskin, and me in a bikini with most of my skin exposed (the women here keep covered up, not so much out of propriety, but to keep their skin white and smooth – these smart ladies simply don’t see the point of a tan).

Sand and salt encrusted, we made our way further south for a visit to Udo Shrine. Now, I have been to a few shrines both on this visit and when I was in Tokyo a few years back, but quite frankly, Udo blows them all out of the water. It is probably the most beautiful place in Japan.

In order to get to the shrine, you have to escalate an Indiana Jones-esque staircase with a silly number of rocky, old steps and once you’ve reached the top, you have to descend equally as far to the cliffs overlooking the sea. But is it ever worth it.

Down a pathway, through several gates you plunge even further into the rocky cove. And hidden in a grotto at the end is Udo Shrine. This shrine is intended to promote healthy relationships and fertility (we’ll take the healthy relationship bit only, thanks very much).

And thus, my description of the shrine ends. In all my articulacy, I don’t think I have the words to continue. Check out the pictures or visit for yourself.

Typhoon Man-Yi

My fun-filled first week in Miyakonojo ended with a typhoon. Yes, a typhoon, otherwise known as a violent tropical storm. Now, Luke told me I was coming at the end of the rainy season, but I didn’t realize that a tempest of biblical proportions was in the works.

Although I have to say, now that it’s all said and done, that I’ve been in harder rainstorms on summer afternoons in Boulder, and experienced winds of much greater speed and strength on Eagle’s Nest Ridge in Vail, so I wasn’t totally overwhelmed by this storm (though I hear it wreaked havoc on the Okinawa island chain).

But it was a good day to stay inside, so we rented tons of movies, bought a bunch of food (the supermarket here is a whole other story☺), and holed up for the weekend.

The typhoon hit early Saturday morning and lasted all day, with signs of clearing by late evening. At one point, we decided to venture out – definitely check out the photos. It was pretty crazy!

In spite of itself, Typhoon Man-Yi brought the sunshine - thank goodness! Sunday morning was bright and beautiful for the first time since I arrived. This place looks totally different in the light and I finally got a look at the local volcano, Kirishima. This was definitely a day for the beach . . .

Check out my ride!

Before I go any further with this blog, I absolutely must share something that has totally enhanced my experience in Miyakonojo. In my last post I mentioned hopping on my bike to go to Sushi Tora. Well, I would be hoofing it all over town if not for the beautiful emerald green cruiser Luke bought for me.

Yes, a brand new sparkling bike with a big basket was given to me the first day I arrived here. I absolutely love it! It is a dream to ride and it’s the perfect way for me to get around since there’s pretty much no shot in hell I would drive on the wrong side of the road.

Sushi Tora

As of last Wednesday, I still had not had any sushi – sacrilege, I know! But in all truth, there are many other equally important national dishes that have nothing to do with raw fish. Pork and beef are huge, and many places serve fish that has been grilled or baked. So, while sushi is an important part of the Japanese diet, it is not the be-all-end-all of culture and cuisine here.

Nonetheless, I still love it and I was dying to have some. So, Luke and I hopped on our bikes and went to Sushi Tora. I know, same name as our favorite sushi restaurant in Boulder – totally different experience!

First off, all the seating is right up next to the sushi bar. That’s because sushi in this part of Japan is almost always served “kaiten,” or on a conveyor belt. That is, all the little plates rotate around the restaurant and you just pull off whatever looks good. Check out my pictures to see how fast these guys make the sushi – they keep the belt pretty much full at all times.

And of course the other major, and most important difference, is the quality of the fish. That’s not to say that Sushi Tora in Boulder doesn’t serve up some excellent sashimi, but when you’re this close to many major fishing ports, the grade is much higher.

We snapped up plates of tuna, eel, salmon and even fried chicken (they LOVE fried chicken here – I’d say it’s as common, if not more, than fish!). I stayed away from the raw chicken, but other than that, we sampled most of what they had to offer. And when it’s all said and done, they calculate your bill based on how many plates you have in front of you and what design they are (plates are design/color-coded to reflect the price of the item).

Not only was this sushi experience second-to-none in terms of taste and quality, but it was extremely efficient as well. Very Japanese, it seems.

Matsuri or Octopus on a Stick

The Japanese festival experience is actually quite similar to a fair or summer celebration in the States. There’s dancing, performances, food, games, etc. Pretty typical festival stuff, with just a few minor differences: you’ve probably had a corn dog, right? Or some other meat on a stick? Well, they’ve got the same kind of thing here, but instead of an overly processed pork product, it’s octopus. That’s right, folks. Octopus on a stick. And people just go around eating this stuff like we would eat a hot dog.

I, after careful consideration, opted for the tamer, deep fried octopus ball. This festival fare is bite-size chunks of octopus dropped into a deep fryer and covered in a sauce and some cabbage-like garnish. Delish!

Our foray into matsuri culture did not stop at the food. We enjoyed a traditional fan dance, taiko drumming and the ritual shrine procession. Definitely check out the pictures to see the huge taiko drum that almost ran over me as I was trying to get a photo.

My favorite part of the matsuri? I could actually see everything that was happening! At 5’8”, I was on the taller side of festival-goers and very few people blocked my view. Pretty cool coming from America where there’s always some tall guy standing in front of you.

Obijo Castle

Waking up to sunshine on the other morning led us to plan a day at the beach. I put on my swimsuit, we packed a beach bag and Luke put his surfboard on top of the car. As soon as the engine started, so did the rain. We made a quick trip to the convenience store (a chain called Lawson Station that I am absolutely fascinated with, even though it is the Japanese equivalent of 7-11) to grab some snacks and reconsider our options, then it was back to Luke’s to unload the surfboard. Other beach accessories still in tow, we headed out to see where the weather might take us.

As is turns out, Obijo Castle is a good rainy day spot. Good, that is, if you have an umbrella, which we did, and are not wearing your beach clothes (read: short skirt and t-shirt over swimsuit), which I was – oh well. We forged ahead despite my scantiness.

Obijo Castle is the restored feudal estate of the _________family (still looking for the brochure we got, then Luke will have to translate). The main attraction is the mansion. This sprawling residence is literally covered in tatami mats and features several bathrooms, a large kitchen and sauna. Also includes plenty of samurai armor storage space. Surrounding grounds are incomparable.

In addition to the main house, there are several outbuildings you can visit, one of which houses a museum filled with kimonos, calligraphy and samurai relics. We sought refuge from the downpour in both the museum and in a smaller, but no less grand, home down the way from the mansion. The garden here is most impressive, but it was kind of flooded due to the rain. You can sort of get the jist from the pictures (see the Obijo Castle album).

Surrounding the entire property are massive, mossy stone walls. This stronghold, it is safe to assume, was built to protect the family from the warring samurai in the next fortress over.

After getting rainsoaked at the castle, we started our journey back to Miyakonojo, stopping for lunch along the way at a small restaurant in the country. I think we were the first foreigners to stop in there in a while, maybe ever, as they were all smiles, sort of beaming with wonder that we thought to stop in.

Onsen or Alone, Naked and Foreign

You know that cliché dream? You’re walking down the middle of the street naked and everyone is looking at you? This happened to me! Well, sort of. Check it out . . .

Our next stop was Yupopo Onsen. An onsen is a Japanese hot spring. Onsens come in many varieties – some are big, some are small; some are old and traditional, while others are new and modern. They are all designed to have a relaxing effect on mind and body, and nearly all of them are gender separated. There’s also very specific protocol that must be followed when preparing to enter the onsen.

The Yupopo Onsen is a big modern complex with two huge bathing areas – one for men and one for women. Since I was going in alone, Luke had to explain everything to me before we separated.

After getting strict instructions on onsen etiquette, I entered the women’s locker room – ALONE!

So, I walk in, and it’s kind of like when the bad guy enters the bar and the music stops playing. While I think that the women here are generally discreet, they made no secret of the fact that they were checking out the gaijin in their onsen.

I totally stripped down to reveal tan lines, tattoo and belly button ring – all of which are totally objectionable in Japanese culture. But no one would ever give you a dirty look or say anything. They stare, to be sure, but showing any discourtesy is considered even more offensive than whatever you’re doing to attract attention.

Anyway, I gathered all my toiletries and towels and headed into the bathing area. The first thing you do is scrub down – and I mean scrub. You have to be squeaky clean to enter the tubs. But there is no privacy in which to bathe, just a bunch of little stations with stool, tub, spout and showerhead. This particular onsen provides soap for hair and body (you even have to wash your hair!).

So, I looked around for cues and observed women taking a lot of time to be totally thorough and I followed suit, despite the exhibitionist quality of the whole experience.

After I sloughed off my gaijin filth, as it were, I looked around for a suitable first tub. I picked a warm, but not hot bath, stayed in there a few minutes and then went into a cold “exercise” pool. After that I made the huge mistake of getting into the electric tub (I don’t think I’ve yet recovered). When I got in I didn’t notice anything, but an old woman pointed to some jets on the side. I put my hand in front first and it seemed okay, so I moved my back over the panel and, “Owwww!” It shocked me from head to toe. I am sure the old woman got a good laugh when I bolted to the other side of the tub to escape the current.

After that I headed outdoors to try the open-air tubs. It was nice to sit outside, as the sun was actually shining just before it dipped below the horizon. Then it was back in to try the cold tub. This was, by far, my favorite – so refreshing.

Keep in mind that all the while people are looking at me like I’ve got three heads. Like it wasn’t uncomfortable enough to be naked, I’ve got women peeking around corners to get a look at me.

I finished up with a soak in a mineral bath that smelled like vegetable soup, and then to get rid of the smell, I hopped in a bath that had a stream of water overhead to massage your neck and back. It was fabulously relaxing!

Finally, it was back to the showers where I again washed up in public. I’d say the whole experience took a little over an hour and I can’t wait to do it again! I can see why this is such a huge form of recreation here – it’s social (if you have friends and can speak☺), it’s healing and relaxing, it’s cheap and it’s everywhere.

Sekino-o Falls

Saturday found us at what is labeled as one of the "Top 100 Waterfalls in Japan." Now, I don't know how many waterfalls they actually have here, but this doesn’t seem to be a label of distinction. Nonetheless, Sekino-o Falls is an impressive natural wonder.

It was unusually spectacular on this particular day thanks to the heavy rainfall over the last week or so (obviously, it started pouring upon my arrival in Japan). The water was incredibly high and the roaring river/fall was sending a continuous gust of heavy mist over the entire area. In fact, many sections of the footbridge were closed off due to flooding.

After getting soaked with mist (not that the humidity doesn’t do it to you anyway), we decided to stop in the gift shop and get some green tea ice cream. I have never had to eat ice cream so fast in my life. The minute we walked out the door it was practically melted and all I could do was quickly slurp it up, or risk losing it to the sidewalk (clearly, not an option☺).

Karaoke

I swore I would not sing karaoke. I wouldn’t want anyone to have to suffer through my rendition of Bright Eyes or Stand by Your Man. Luke will tell you without hesitation that I can’t hold a tune to save my life. Which is why, I believe, it was to his delight that that I publicly humiliated myself and thoroughly entertained others by means of this Japanese national pastime.

In my defense, I had just been through an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink situation with an unruly crowd of Australians (they’re genetically coded for boisterousness). I can’t be held responsible for my actions.

Anyhow, Luke’s friend Tim (pictured above) negotiated our entrance into this dark little karaoke bar. I think we paid about ¥2,000 for two hours of karaoke, drinks and a bizarre selection of snack food. When we stepped inside there was a small group of older adults singing slow Japanese music. I think we ran them out with Jesse’s Girl, though they stopped to exchange pleasantries with us on their way to the door.

After that, we had the place to ourselves. It was just us, the proprietress, and her right hand man, both of whom seemed fascinated by the silly gaijin revelry taking place. Though at the end of two hours, I think they were ready to shoo us out the door.

I can’t lie – it was fun. I would definitely do karaoke again, not that I have a choice in the matter.

Izakaya

We met a couple of other foreigners, hence referred to as gaijin (the Japanese word for outsiders), at another local Izakaya. At this particular restaurant, a flat fee of ¥3,500 (about $25-30) is paid for all you can eat and all you can drink! I tried salad with pieces of sashimi, some baked fish, potato wedges, pig intestine soup and a bunch of other unidentifiable food. For drinks it was beer and shochu (the regional drink – a dry, distilled spirit) or chu-hai (shochu mixed with fruit soda).

Sitting right next to us was a gaggle of giggling Japanese women. They appeared to be on sort of a girls’ night out, making the most of their ¥3,500. While Japanese women seem very polite and subdued in public during the day, it’s no holds barred when they’re out on the town. (See picture above ☺.) They were absolutely loving Luke and his Aussie friend Tim who kept speaking to them in silly Japanese voices.

After dinner we got a ride back downtown via a service that drives your car for you. (Japan is a zero-tolerance country and they take drinking and driving very seriously. You simply don’t get behind the wheel, even if you’ve only had a sip.)

Then it was off to karaoke!

Kirishima Shrine

Kirishima Shrine sits at the base of a volcano by the same name. It is located in Kagoshima, the prefecture next to Miyazaki. Rainy and overcast, it was the perfect weather for experiencing a place such as this. The entire thing was shrouded in mist, making it very mysterious and kind of mystical.

There were very few people at the shrine, and certainly no other foreigners. We walked up a huge set of steps and passed through a couple of big gates to view the shrine. When we arrived, we participated in ritual hand washing, which is meant to cleanse you before you visit the shrine.

In front of the shrine itself, we made an offering of a few yen and said a prayer. There’s a very specific way to do all of these things – clapping and bowing and such, so it was good that I had Luke to show me what to do.

There wasn’t much else to do at the shrine, as it was so overcast that we couldn’t really take advantage of the ocean views or anything like that. So we drove back to Miyakonojo and my jet lag really set in – sooooo tired and out of it!

After a quick nap, I attempted to rally for a night out with some of Luke’s friends.

Konichi Wa

My computer is finally configured to the Japanese network at Luke's apartment! I have been here for nearly a week now, but haven't been able to do anything online as my computer, like me, apparently does not speak Japanese. And then last night, all of a sudden, something clicked. I can only hope the same for myself - at present I am the intellectual equal of a Japanese infant.

Regardless, I really like it here so far. I am in Miyakonojo, a town of about 180,000 on Japan's southernmost major island, Kyushu. It is located in a predominantly agricultural valley surrounded by rolling hills that are covered in the thickest, darkest forests I have ever seen. I can only assume that the foliage is so dense here due to the incredible annual rainfall – outrageous amounts of which seem to be falling since I arrived.

Miyakonojo is located about an hour away from the coastal city of Miyazaki, the prefecture’s namesake. Miyazaki is known as the Japanese surfing Mecca, and while I haven’t spent time there yet, I did fly into their airport, which features a runway that comes straight in from the ocean.

Speaking of arrival, I got here on the evening of July 5 after about three plane rides and 20 hours of travel. Luke picked me up at the airport and we made the hour drive from Miyazaki to Miyakonojo. After getting settled in Luke’s apartment (a small one bedroom with a tiny kitchen and living area, the kind of bathroom where everything gets wet, a very cool tatami bedroom floor and a balcony that’s main purpose seems to be for hanging clothes to dry – not that they do ☺), we made our way down to an Izakaya . . .

(If you feel obligated to read my blog, then I am sorry for the long post. If this is occupying a part of your boring day at work, then by all means, read on. Regardless, this will probably be my longest entry since I have so much catching up to do!)

My understanding of Izakayas is that they are sort of the Japanese equivalent of an English pub. They are pretty mainstream, average restaurants located in every neighborhood as a gathering place for the locals. Anyhow, this is where I had my first Japanese meal of gyoza (dumplings, only these dumplings were wrapped in chicken wings!), salad and something else – I can’t remember exactly what, some mystery meats, I think (maybe tongue?). The owner set up a special plate for us since it was my first night in Miyakonojo.

On Friday Luke had to go to work – he teaches English in public schools through a government-sponsored program. I spent the day trying to catch up on work, despite my lack of connection. When Luke got home we took off sightseeing . . .