A Belated Conclusion

I’m feeling bad that I never finished journaling my last visit to Japan. The last few days of the trip were too busy to write and when I got home, I just forgot to pick it up, I guess. There’s not much left to tell, but I feel incomplete without this blog’s conclusion. And conclusion, I’m afraid it is. As two out of my last six months have been spent exploring the hidden corners of Miyakonojo and the great wonders of Southern Japan, I feel that it’s time to pursue travel elsewhere. (I must admit, I say this only half-heartedly, as in searching for a ticket to Bangkok earlier today, I researched a stopover in Miyazaki to see Luke before we head to the beaches of Thailand.)

Conclusion of my visits to Nippon or not, I will at least reveal the details of the end of this most recent trip . . .

Following the somewhat ill-fated kyudo lesson (ill-fated in that I remain an undiscovered talent), Luke and I made plans to hike the local volcano, Kirishima. Hiking great peaks always spikes some anxiety in me, thanks to all the perils that accompany mountaineering in Colorado. But, in this area of Japan, this time of year, there are no weather concerns, and as it’s a popular hike, there’s no route finding, scrambling or technical sections, so I was free to enjoy the wander. Except for one tiny thing – the smoking crater and certainly impending eruption.

It turns out it’s not so scary after all. A little crowded, yes (it looked like a line of ants moving up the trail ahead), but not scary. In fact, it was quite pleasant. We made our way out of the parking lot, which actually reminded me of the visitor center on Trail Ridge Road, thanks to the gift shops and tourists with no intention of hiking beyond the Torii gate, and up the trail bordered on each side by lush greenery. Not too far up, the trees and foliage disappear. I’m not sure why – I think it has something to do with the volcanic activity, because common sense would dictate that the latitude and elevation wouldn’t prevent growth. But anyway, from here on out, it’s just scree fields of lava rock. So cool! It’s actually kind of slippery, especially on the way down, but we made excellent time, reaching the summit in just over an hour, I think.

There’s an elaborate shrine at the top, not to mention amazing 360-degree views. And, I totally forgot to share the geological marvels that can be seen on the way to the top. Really, words don’t do this molten mountain justice. For a more vivid description of the layers of brilliantly colored exposed bedrock and bubbling cauldron of a crater, click on the link at the top right to see photos.

We concluded our hike with a visit to Yupopo Onsen, a fabulous, geothermically-powered bath, where I, once again, had to bare all in the presence of curious Japanese women. This time, however, I was much better equipped to handle the stares of those shocked to see a foreigner, much less a tattooed and pierced foreigner, marching into their hot springs, and the ogling of children who had maybe seen just a handful of only clothed Americans ever!


With just a few days remaining before I returned home, Luke and I decided a trip to the beach was in order. When I was in Miyakonojo during the summer, we spent many days on the beach, but because the weather was cooler this time, we weren’t as quick to make it to the sand and waves. Though, it’s no less beautiful in the fall.

We took the long way to the coast, winding through rice paddies and forests still not tinged by autumn’s chill. On the way, we stopped near Obijo castle to buy some beautifully hand-forged knives. It was a bit chilly and windy on the beach, but I still managed to dip my toes in the water and collect a few shells.

The way home lead us through a festival and parade in Nichinan. Looking back on my photos, I realize that the last picture I took was of a parade group gathering in front of the Lawson convenience store. This is probably appropriate and reflective of the time I spent there, as festivals were always my favorite for their food and revelry, and the Lawson, well, I could go on for pages. I admit, sadly, that it’s the equivalent of 7-11, but I just love it so much – they have delicious seaweed-wrapped rice, ice cream and Hello Kitty fans. I couldn’t be more delighted by any other small pleasures.

Back in the Jo

I had a feeling I would find my way back to Miyakonojo. I just didn’t think it would be quite this soon. But, here I find myself, about two-and-a-half months after my last trip, wandering incompetently throughout this relatively unknown Japanese town. It’s kind of a trip. And wander is kind of a lie. I just got in last night, and thought I’ve ventured to the vending machine for some excellent Japanese coffee, I have mostly been catching up on work and getting glimpses of the World Series on the TV guide channel.

You see, they do televise these games here, because of Daisuke and Matsui, but it’s only on cable, and Luke doesn’t have cable. But one of the channels is split into 16 tiny screens so you can see all broadcasts simultaneously. So, I am watching Rockies baseball players the size of ants take on the Red Sox in a tiny corner of the screen. And, since I can’t see the score, I have to check ESPN.com periodically for an update.

Anyhow, it’s strange to be back here – I mean, who visits Miyakonojo regularly? That’s right, no one. Except for me – driven by the desperation of a long distance relationship to spend thousands of dollars and travel thousands of miles. It’s kind of fun, though. I feel like a jet setter. Yesterday at the airport I felt quite experienced and important finding my way through the familiar routine of getting from one continent to the next. Even another foreigner sought my advice at the entrance to customs. I must look like I know what I am doing.

So, last night, Luke picked me up in Miyazaki – it was raining, of course, because it always rains whenever I go anywhere – and we made the short drive back to Miyakonojo. It’s definitely a lot different to visit this time. The weather is much, much better. Still humid, but a lot cooler. (I worry about having to readjust to the cold when I get home, but I guess it will be nice to be warm for a few more weeks, before I become a skiing popsicle on the slopes of Vail.)

It smells different, too. When I walked out this morning to get some coffee, it was the first thing I noticed. It must be the smell of fall, but it’s much sweeter here than it is in Colorado. Unlike the subtle dry, leafy odor we drink in all through October, this is pungent and thick. I like it though – it complemented well my peek into the temple grounds next door.

I’m not sure what I am going to do today. Luke is at work until late afternoon. He’s actually going to be working the whole time I’m here, which is probably good. I plan on spending the time working and studying for my GMAT. Yuck. But, it sounds like we have some weekend trips planned, and Luke has arranged an archery lesson for me! I am so excited for that.

Hopefully, I will be able to relax and get out a little more on this trip. Last time I was here I had so much work to do, and this short visit seems to have landed fortuitously in a small chunk of time between completion of a few projects and initiation of a few more. So, that’s good.

I think this concludes my first entry. Unless something fascinating happens to me on the way to the Lawson convenience store – you never know!

Sayonara, Part I

This entry finds me sitting on the floor at Nagoya Chubu International Airport. I flew in from Miyazaki this morning, and now I’m waiting for a United agent to show up and decide my fate.

You see, when I booked this crazy trip, it was a little last minute and I didn’t have many travel dates to choose from since I used miles to buy my ticket. Luke arranged for my flights between Nagoya and Miyazaki, also using miles. My return tickets . . .

(And, I’ve just been asked to remove my plug from the outlet. For some reason, they don’t want me plugged in and have actually sent someone to tell me so. I wonder how long, first of all, it took for them to muster the confrontational skills to decide I needed to be told to unplug, and then to find someone to translate into English. Hard to say. But, as I’m about to run my battery, this will have to resume at a later date.)

Coastal Tour

Luke’s international driving permit is about to expire, and because he’s staying in Japan for another year, he has to get an actual Japanese driver’s license. Basically, he has to make like he’s 16 again and take driving lessons and a test. It’s a long, drawn out, inconvenient and expensive process for a foreigner to get licensed to drive in this country, requiring several trips to Miyazaki city and lots of yen. It sucks for Luke, but for me it means extra trips to the beach and the crazy Japanese shopping mall.

One such visit to Miyazaki city for this whole licensing debacle led to a trip to Mos Burger, “Fine Japanese Burger and Coffee.” (This so-called fast food actually involved a 20-minute wait at the window for our teriyaki burgers, fries and shakes, and yes they do screw up orders just as badly here as they do in the States.) After which we began a long drive down the Southern Coast of Kyushu. Luke’s Coastal Tour remains one of the best parts of my trip so far. We stopped at a secret swimming hole where we jumped off rocks into the ocean, and wandered around looking at tide pools. Then we found a shrine hidden deep in a valley next to a beautiful waterfall. And finally we visited Cape Toi, the home of a herd of wild horses. All along the way we saw monkeys hanging by the roadside and more hawks than I could count gliding just above.

I still can’t believe how tropical and exotic this part of Japan is. It’s such a contrast to the concrete Jungle that is Tokyo.
………………………………………………………………………………………………

On my next visit to Miyazaki city, Luke dropped me at the Starbucks while he attended a driving lesson. Yes, that’s right, Starbucks. Globalization finally reared its ugly head (first time this trip!), and I found myself drinking iced coffee under the all too familiar green sign. In my defense, I will say that I had a lot of work to do and not knowing the area, I decided this would be the most reliable option. In this part of Japan, there’s not exactly a thriving freelance culture, and therefore not many coffee shops catering to the needs of struggling writers and trust funders.

Anyhow, after I compromised my morals at Starbucks, we made a trip to the mall for ice cream and to shop for souvenirs and Engrish. No such luck, although it was kind of fun to see Japanese shopping mall culture. It’s basically the same as at home – families and teenagers killing time on a weekend afternoon.

This weekend I am going to the mall in Kagoshima to kick it with my new Japanese girlfriends. Luke, much to his chagrin, has to go along as my translator. I am really looking forward to it – should be interesting to experience an outing with the girls, Japanese style.

Day at the Beach::Udo Shrine

We took the back way to the coast, winding through rice paddies and other crops on two-lane country roads, reaching Miyazaki city and the ocean in just over an hour. Miyazaki is known for its beautiful coastline, surf breaks and seaside resorts. There are small stretches of sandy beaches, though most of the shore is characterized by what is called the Devil’s Washboard – a jagged rock formation caused by wave erosion.

After a quick lunch overlooking a small surf break, we stopped for a swim. The water was colder and cloudier than normal thanks to the typhoon, but still great for taking a dip. We relaxed in the waves, played a little American football (I’m sure Luke owns the only football on this island!), and checked out the tide pools hidden in the rock bed.

I think the local beachgoers were amused by us – Luke and his pigskin, and me in a bikini with most of my skin exposed (the women here keep covered up, not so much out of propriety, but to keep their skin white and smooth – these smart ladies simply don’t see the point of a tan).

Sand and salt encrusted, we made our way further south for a visit to Udo Shrine. Now, I have been to a few shrines both on this visit and when I was in Tokyo a few years back, but quite frankly, Udo blows them all out of the water. It is probably the most beautiful place in Japan.

In order to get to the shrine, you have to escalate an Indiana Jones-esque staircase with a silly number of rocky, old steps and once you’ve reached the top, you have to descend equally as far to the cliffs overlooking the sea. But is it ever worth it.

Down a pathway, through several gates you plunge even further into the rocky cove. And hidden in a grotto at the end is Udo Shrine. This shrine is intended to promote healthy relationships and fertility (we’ll take the healthy relationship bit only, thanks very much).

And thus, my description of the shrine ends. In all my articulacy, I don’t think I have the words to continue. Check out the pictures or visit for yourself.

Konichi Wa

My computer is finally configured to the Japanese network at Luke's apartment! I have been here for nearly a week now, but haven't been able to do anything online as my computer, like me, apparently does not speak Japanese. And then last night, all of a sudden, something clicked. I can only hope the same for myself - at present I am the intellectual equal of a Japanese infant.

Regardless, I really like it here so far. I am in Miyakonojo, a town of about 180,000 on Japan's southernmost major island, Kyushu. It is located in a predominantly agricultural valley surrounded by rolling hills that are covered in the thickest, darkest forests I have ever seen. I can only assume that the foliage is so dense here due to the incredible annual rainfall – outrageous amounts of which seem to be falling since I arrived.

Miyakonojo is located about an hour away from the coastal city of Miyazaki, the prefecture’s namesake. Miyazaki is known as the Japanese surfing Mecca, and while I haven’t spent time there yet, I did fly into their airport, which features a runway that comes straight in from the ocean.

Speaking of arrival, I got here on the evening of July 5 after about three plane rides and 20 hours of travel. Luke picked me up at the airport and we made the hour drive from Miyazaki to Miyakonojo. After getting settled in Luke’s apartment (a small one bedroom with a tiny kitchen and living area, the kind of bathroom where everything gets wet, a very cool tatami bedroom floor and a balcony that’s main purpose seems to be for hanging clothes to dry – not that they do ☺), we made our way down to an Izakaya . . .

(If you feel obligated to read my blog, then I am sorry for the long post. If this is occupying a part of your boring day at work, then by all means, read on. Regardless, this will probably be my longest entry since I have so much catching up to do!)

My understanding of Izakayas is that they are sort of the Japanese equivalent of an English pub. They are pretty mainstream, average restaurants located in every neighborhood as a gathering place for the locals. Anyhow, this is where I had my first Japanese meal of gyoza (dumplings, only these dumplings were wrapped in chicken wings!), salad and something else – I can’t remember exactly what, some mystery meats, I think (maybe tongue?). The owner set up a special plate for us since it was my first night in Miyakonojo.

On Friday Luke had to go to work – he teaches English in public schools through a government-sponsored program. I spent the day trying to catch up on work, despite my lack of connection. When Luke got home we took off sightseeing . . .