Coastal Tour

Luke’s international driving permit is about to expire, and because he’s staying in Japan for another year, he has to get an actual Japanese driver’s license. Basically, he has to make like he’s 16 again and take driving lessons and a test. It’s a long, drawn out, inconvenient and expensive process for a foreigner to get licensed to drive in this country, requiring several trips to Miyazaki city and lots of yen. It sucks for Luke, but for me it means extra trips to the beach and the crazy Japanese shopping mall.

One such visit to Miyazaki city for this whole licensing debacle led to a trip to Mos Burger, “Fine Japanese Burger and Coffee.” (This so-called fast food actually involved a 20-minute wait at the window for our teriyaki burgers, fries and shakes, and yes they do screw up orders just as badly here as they do in the States.) After which we began a long drive down the Southern Coast of Kyushu. Luke’s Coastal Tour remains one of the best parts of my trip so far. We stopped at a secret swimming hole where we jumped off rocks into the ocean, and wandered around looking at tide pools. Then we found a shrine hidden deep in a valley next to a beautiful waterfall. And finally we visited Cape Toi, the home of a herd of wild horses. All along the way we saw monkeys hanging by the roadside and more hawks than I could count gliding just above.

I still can’t believe how tropical and exotic this part of Japan is. It’s such a contrast to the concrete Jungle that is Tokyo.
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On my next visit to Miyazaki city, Luke dropped me at the Starbucks while he attended a driving lesson. Yes, that’s right, Starbucks. Globalization finally reared its ugly head (first time this trip!), and I found myself drinking iced coffee under the all too familiar green sign. In my defense, I will say that I had a lot of work to do and not knowing the area, I decided this would be the most reliable option. In this part of Japan, there’s not exactly a thriving freelance culture, and therefore not many coffee shops catering to the needs of struggling writers and trust funders.

Anyhow, after I compromised my morals at Starbucks, we made a trip to the mall for ice cream and to shop for souvenirs and Engrish. No such luck, although it was kind of fun to see Japanese shopping mall culture. It’s basically the same as at home – families and teenagers killing time on a weekend afternoon.

This weekend I am going to the mall in Kagoshima to kick it with my new Japanese girlfriends. Luke, much to his chagrin, has to go along as my translator. I am really looking forward to it – should be interesting to experience an outing with the girls, Japanese style.

Day at the Beach::Udo Shrine

We took the back way to the coast, winding through rice paddies and other crops on two-lane country roads, reaching Miyazaki city and the ocean in just over an hour. Miyazaki is known for its beautiful coastline, surf breaks and seaside resorts. There are small stretches of sandy beaches, though most of the shore is characterized by what is called the Devil’s Washboard – a jagged rock formation caused by wave erosion.

After a quick lunch overlooking a small surf break, we stopped for a swim. The water was colder and cloudier than normal thanks to the typhoon, but still great for taking a dip. We relaxed in the waves, played a little American football (I’m sure Luke owns the only football on this island!), and checked out the tide pools hidden in the rock bed.

I think the local beachgoers were amused by us – Luke and his pigskin, and me in a bikini with most of my skin exposed (the women here keep covered up, not so much out of propriety, but to keep their skin white and smooth – these smart ladies simply don’t see the point of a tan).

Sand and salt encrusted, we made our way further south for a visit to Udo Shrine. Now, I have been to a few shrines both on this visit and when I was in Tokyo a few years back, but quite frankly, Udo blows them all out of the water. It is probably the most beautiful place in Japan.

In order to get to the shrine, you have to escalate an Indiana Jones-esque staircase with a silly number of rocky, old steps and once you’ve reached the top, you have to descend equally as far to the cliffs overlooking the sea. But is it ever worth it.

Down a pathway, through several gates you plunge even further into the rocky cove. And hidden in a grotto at the end is Udo Shrine. This shrine is intended to promote healthy relationships and fertility (we’ll take the healthy relationship bit only, thanks very much).

And thus, my description of the shrine ends. In all my articulacy, I don’t think I have the words to continue. Check out the pictures or visit for yourself.